|
|
|
ATHS Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Today @ 9:54:01 AM
Posts: 1,243,
Visits: 5,625
|
|
I got a stick and shift tower from Grant a few weeks ago. I sanded it down nice and prepared to swap. My truck has a 14615. It originally came with a 12513. The problem is that I am into the seat in 1st and 6th. Now I haven't ruled out someone might have mismounted the seat but the stick Grant gave me with a tower looked about the same as the one I had only better. The old one wound up in the same place. Does the 15 speed use a different tower and stick? I suppose I could get greasy again and put a bend in it and put it back on but I was hoping to keep it stock. If it takes a different tower then I will have to look for one of those.
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/16990
Hates trolls
|
|
|
|
|
ATHS Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Today @ 2:01:09 AM
Posts: 1,006,
Visits: 1,873
|
|
Torch, bend it.
I can't get anymore out of it, I've got both sticks hot clear up to the knobs allready.
www.killcarb.org
|
|
|
|
|
ATHS Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Today @ 10:25:33 AM
Posts: 326,
Visits: 1,700
|
|
| Is the seat behind the wheel? If so, it's not much mismounted..... like I said last time, and Aaron said above again, take a torch, heat it up and bend it. JH
I'm so far behind, I think I'm ahead!
|
|
|
|
|
ATHS Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Today @ 9:54:01 AM
Posts: 1,243,
Visits: 5,625
|
|
Just wanted to verify that I am not trying to make a square peg fit - IE get a 15 speed tower and stick. My old stick turned out it had been welded/rewelded, shortened, lengthened..etc. Guess it has to come back out and get painted..again.
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/16990
Hates trolls
|
|
|
|
|
ATHS Member
Group: Moderators
Last Login: Today @ 5:06:52 AM
Posts: 439,
Visits: 320
|
|
| Kevin, Heres the Eaton part numbers.No differance from a 13 to a 15.The factories had their sticks jig bent to fit different models, replacement sticks are usually do it youreself deals.Like Aaron and John said, heat it and bend it.We never bothered to take them out, just pulled the lines and the shift boot, had the driver in the seat with his hand on the knob and another guy running the torch from the passengers side.Put it in the gear where the trouble is, heat, then pull/push till its right.Youre not cutting, just heating, shouldnt start a fire unless you drop the torch or point it at something flameable, lol.Lay some newspapers down afterward and give it a quick coat of rattle can semi gloss.John
John Costley
ATHS Online Division Charter Member
Sabattus, Maine
|
|
|
|
|
ATHS Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Today @ 10:00:02 AM
Posts: 585,
Visits: 8,495
|
|
| How expensive are the shift levers, and tower assemblies? I've never seen where to order them around here either but I'm going to be in need of a couple and would prefer to go with new due to wear on one I have currently. I see from the .pdf John posted the stub portion, but do you also order the top part you actually grab? All of my existing are of the one piece variety. Is this an upgrade for the "anti-rattle" kit that is installed? Thanks, Rob
A larger hammer will surely make it fit....
|
|
|
|
|
ATHS Member
Group: Moderators
Last Login: Today @ 5:06:52 AM
Posts: 439,
Visits: 320
|
|
Rob (2/7/2010)
How expensive are the shift levers, and tower assemblies? I've never seen where to order them around here either but I'm going to be in need of a couple and would prefer to go with new due to wear on one I have currently. I see from the .pdf John posted the stub portion, but do you also order the top part you actually grab? All of my existing are of the one piece variety. Is this an upgrade for the "anti-rattle" kit that is installed? Thanks, Rob Rob, You can order those numbers from anyone that sells Eaton parts, either a parts dealer, truck dealer, or transmission shop. Look closer at the HD section of that PDF., you can buy just the stub lever, the stub lever with isolator ( anti rattle rubber ), or a universal full leangth lever.You can order all three with or without a tower.One page is just levers, then just towers, then levers with towers.John
John Costley
ATHS Online Division Charter Member
Sabattus, Maine
|
|
|
|
|
ATHS Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Today @ 2:01:09 AM
Posts: 1,006,
Visits: 1,873
|
|
Used to be the isolator was an add on weld on but maybe it can be had on a new stick as well, I've never had one but thinking of putting one on a sissy stick 125.
I can't get anymore out of it, I've got both sticks hot clear up to the knobs allready.
www.killcarb.org
|
|
|
|
|
ATHS Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: Today @ 9:54:01 AM
Posts: 1,243,
Visits: 5,625
|
|
Upon further investigation I think it is going to be find the way it is. It comes close but no longer interferes with the seat. The old one was mashed firmly into it. Now I have about half inch of clearance. The added length of lever is part of it, the rest being it remains unmolested unlike the old one I removed. Now to find that air line diagram again... I had it printed out but it has gotten lost. Now the search on Roadranger.com begins again.
http://www.supermotors.net/vehicles/registry/16990
Hates trolls
|
|
|
|
|
ATHS Member
Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 3/6/2010 12:09:07 AM
Posts: 69,
Visits: 184
|
|
| Another scenario is that there are two different shift tops on fuller transmissions, a "standard " and a "forward" control making a difference of several inches that could make the difference between clearing an obstruction and hitting that obstruction. Also with 3 different heights on shift towers, you can change where shift will be, possibly missing what ever your hitting. Shift towers are around $175 with the isolator. Just cut the old lever and weld to the isolator.
****************** Charlie Hatfield
"Old trucks are fun" 1929 MACK "BB" FIRE TRUCK #631665
|
|
|
|