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Group: Forum Members
Last Login: 12/18/2009 9:19:36 AM
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| Hello fellow enthusiasts! I,m new to the fixing/restoring process so any insight would be greatly appreciated. I own a 1978 white western star. It comes with an alluminum frame and just wanted to know how to test for power as it doesn't ground the same as steel? Do i ground the circuit tester to the battery or will any steel do? The next question is that being an aluminum frame does all the electrical have a fixed or central point for ground for all electrical? I have many more questions but this will start. Thanks in advance for your input!
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ATHS Member
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If you nare going to load test a battery then connect to the battery and get a reading. Now if you want to load test it including a battery cable then the cable you want to test take the battery tester clamp of of that ter and place it at the other end of the cable that was connected to that battery post and test the battery including that cable. The test should show the same results.If nbot then that proves that the cable is not carring enough amps as should be. If you are testing a truck battery you load tester should be able to draw about 300 or more amps or it will not terst the battery the way it should. If you are testing with a hand held tester that is good for a car battery they are pulling about 80 or 100 mamps and ant much of a tester for a 800 amp truck battery.
glenn akers
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ATHS Member
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Last Login: Today @ 9:04:48 AM
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| steelcowboy, metal is metal.. aluminum frame circuits are the same as steel. Most of your electronic junk uses aluminum or copper traces to route the power. There is no diff testing your light and guage circuits. The frame or any non-isolated metal should be ground. Usually the battery ground is connected at the starter, the frame, and the engine,, sometimes even Y'd together like my 72 KW (alum) at those points. The cab is probably aluminum, and at one or more points, is grounded to the frame. Tests the same. Gold, copper, aluminum, steel, cast iron,etc work the same,, although technically, the resistances are a touch diff, and dont matter to you, as you're not rebuilding an Ipod.. The only diff that will affect anything, is whether it is a NEG- ground, or POS+ ground. Older Freightliners, and I would guess some mid-term Whites, were POS+ ground. Trace the ground from the battery -, and see where it goes to make sure. I believe diff guages and radios were needed in those + ground trucks...
---------------------------------------------------- 1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up
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ATHS Member
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FINALLY--A good dose of reality.
Every Body Gotta Be Some Place
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