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I need to get the window crank off the inside of the door on my 77 GMC. Turning the crank to raise/lower the window doesn't do anything unless you push in on the crank. The handle just seems to slip around the shaft. The handle appears to be held on with some kind of horseshoe wire clip. Seems to me that IF I could pull that spring clip off, the handle would come off. Was there a special tool for GM handles of this era? I tried lots of tools last evening, but no luck.
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| Yep, there is a special tool, should be able to get one at your autoparts store. They used that retaining method for many years.
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| My Astro, General, and various C60's all have the same window cranks as a 70's-80's pickup, and there's a tool for it. NAPA or any parts store should have one, Doorman's brand or some other generic. You can do it with a pair of bent needle-nose pliers pushing on the "open" end of the horseshoe, but it's tricky and you really gotta push in on the door panel - sometimes you don't have enough clearance.
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Richard use a piece of tie wire with a very short hook bent at the end, you can reach between the panel and the handle and usually get the clip off as there is a recess in the center of the handle, when you put them back on put the clip in its proper spot on the handle and put it back on the shaft it locks back on, most likely the shaft is stripped.
I can't get anymore out of it, I've got both sticks hot clear up to the knobs allready.
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Kevin I like the Utube window fix. I have an electric window on the pass. side, but it is slow and most of the time you need the engine running &charging to get the darn thing all the way up. The Mixer is FAST. Thanks
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Got a "Universal" removal tool this am from NAPA ---$7 Lined it up with the bottom of the horseshoe pin, and BAM, it is off! Funny thing is that there were TWO of these tools in the bubble pack --stuck together. The teeth on the GMC handle are trash but the teeth on the GMC regulator shaft look ok. Off to Napa to buy another handle and hope that does it for me. Thanks guys.
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| Richard they put 2 of them in there both bent and shaped exactly alike so you would have one for the left and one for the right. Haven't you ever picked up a nail and when you went to drive it in a board the head was facing down, and the point up? that nail was for the other side of the house. same with the tools.LOL pick one up wrong just use the other one.
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Frank Surber (6/30/2009) Haven't you ever picked up a nail and when you went to drive it in a board the head was facing down, and the point up?On a couple of occasions I have opened a brand new case of beer only to discover that all the cans were made "upside-down". Once I got the cans opened they tasted just fine though....... T.
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Frank It never dawned on me that there were two tools in the pack -- one for handles on the left side and one for handles on the right. Since my GMC has an electric motor on the right (pass.) side window, I guess I won't need the right side tool. BWT The new crank handle from NAPA is an exact duplicate of the original and all I had to do was bang it on the regulator shaft and it was fixed!! I went to fix the inside door handle on my 69 IH and that was held on by a pin through the shaft. The handle is broken where the pin passes through one side of the handle. NAPA doesn't carry handles for that old style. Anyone have an old IH handle --about 6 inches long that fits over a square shaft about 5/16 ?? inches square??
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| Richard, Post a couple pics of that handle.If no one has an IHC handle maybe we can match up some of the reproduction resto car stuff or hot rod stuff thats built for the old sqaure shafts.John
_____________________________________________ John Costley ATHS Online Division Charter Member Sabattus,Maine
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| Richard you know that I am the guy who brought Airconditioning an Elevator and better working conditions to Hadies then taught the Devil how to make a good cup of coffee so you can just say the Devil in me made me say that LOL for your IH handle there are a few ways you can do this yourself if you have a little bit of patience. get a piece of 3/8" square tubing or a piece of 14 ga sheet cut out a strip find a piece of 5/16" key stock use as a mandral to form a socket form a piecs of 3/16" round into the approximate shape of hte handle use the opposite side as the patern. so the round would be hidden inside of a new casting. weld it to the socket at the angle needed. then buy a small bag of green casting sand to pack into a mold. use the good handle as a mold model to make an impression in the sand. place the new handle core in the sand hold suspended by a couple or 3 very thin wires so it does not touch the sand anywhere collect about 10 or 12 aluminum cans shread them into small pieces then put them in a ladle you can make a ladle out of the shell of an old Cat 631c Cab mount and a piece of 3/8 rebar for a handle. use a torch to melt the cans pour into the mold be sure to over pour suffeintly to have enough material to trim away and file to size. after fileing and sanding to propper shape polish the new handle until bright now get a 20 Amp battery charger a 1 gallon plastic bucket some potatsium cloride powder or granuals. a copper bar about 1/2" in diameter heat it to just before mealting and let slowly cool sand it until it becomes bright copper color again use your file to file some of the copper into the bucket about half a cup full should be enough. mix 3 table spoon full of the potatsium cloride into half a gallon of water in the1 gallon bucket stir until as much of the copper is suspended as possible hang the handle in the solution by a 10ga copper wire connect it to the negitive lead of the charger make sure it is completely imersed connect the 1/2 inch coper bar to the positive lead put in in the solution making sure it doesnot touch the handle switch on the charger wait until you see a steady flow of bubbles from the handle switch off remove and inspect after abouit 5 to 10 minutes. repeat as needed until the handle has a nice coating of copper coveringit everywhere. polish it again be careful not to polish through the copper plateing. clean up your bucket completely mix a new solution this time you need as pure nickel bar as possible or you can file down a roll of nickels take the thinned down blanks that you have left over and hammer them together into a bar you can melt them a well taking care not to induce too much carbon into them. repeat as with the copper this time after polishing palte for 2 or 3 more times. the last time you can file some chrome into the solution taking care to only get the top layer of chrome from the doner metal use this only if you want the chrome look instead of nickle. when you are finished install your now perfectly new hand made one of a kind door handle. by the way have good ventelation and do not breathe the fumes Potatsium cynanide solution works best for chrome but can be deadly
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you can buy plating kits from EPI ultrabrite in 1 gallon and 5 gallon sizes in many colors from black to bright
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| Ah ... er .... Frank I think I'll pass on your very easy to follow, basic instructions -- and to think that I wanted to be a Chemical Engineer --that was until I met Dr. Glenn S. Skinner in Inorganic Chemistry, quickly followed by Quantitative Analysis and Qualitative Analysis! UGH! As for the handle, a little research on eBay and Google showed that this handle was used on lots of IH trucks in the 1960's to include Scouts. Found a pair of new ones for about $10 plus shipping. Good old IH spread their parts around as this handle is for my Transtar 400
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Terry, git outta Swishys' beer...
----------------------------------------------------1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up
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well Richard the only Chems that I studied was when once in high school me and my Hippie chemistry teacher made a few stink bombs a couple batches of det-cord some plastik and enough purple haze to send the the entire teaching staff on a really cool trip.you shoud have seen the Principal grabbing at the pretty lights,what metallurgy I picked up I did at a Blacksmith shop where I worked from age 12 through 17
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| Frank, What happened to the nicely formatted write up you had on home plating?
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| it should be in the library if not I will try and find it again however I believe you are probably reffering to the use of electrolosis to remove rust from old siezed up parts for plating the process is reversed you still have to mix a solution of salts depending on which type of finish you are trying to acheive. for plateing if you can get the correct compounds you can have just about any plated finish you are looking for. with the exception of something like HARD chromeing. a home set up is just too difficult and without knowing how to control the process you can wind up being a statistic. but you can obtain a better quality than Barjin products I would reccoment to anyone who wants to do their own plateing to buy the platers bible you can find it online by a Bing or google search or click on the words above it is downloadable and has a wealth of information contained in it.
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Eddyu, or Frank,, here's a plating pdf for the files
----------------------------------------------------1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up
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| one of the advangages I have living in an emerging industrialized nation is they still have small shops who do things like this every where. and I can buy metal powders and oxides of metals of just about any of the colored metals even Gold or platnium if I want to pay the price I can get these at any paint store from a few grams to several Kilograms at a time. I also have an exothermic metalizing spray torch that works a lot like a paint spray but with an Oxy /act flame the torch tip looks sinilar to a rose bud but with a blow hole in the center where the powder come out . it is great for building up shafts or wear plates gear teeth and such you heat the part to the desired temp then spray on the powder for some things a bonding metal has to be used first I have built up shafts for transmissions in Cat equipment with it I have used it to build up worn hydraulic cylinder rods that had deep gouges on the 6 way dozer blades. When I worked for Arthur equipment Roland said it was better to pay me 4times my normal hourly rate than to have to send the shafts or things out to be redone and I was there every day. the other contract welders couldn't understand why when work was slow I was never cut like they were even if he didn't have anything for me to do he would toss me the keys to one of the trucks to go haul something in or I might crawl on a dozer , scraper, motor grader, backhoe or anything. like the door handle that started this thread you have to learn work arounds if something is not available.
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I think I'd use a cordless drill instead of the blender-for 2 reasons. It eliminates that pesky extension cord that the wife was always complaining about being tangled all over her seat, and it would eliminate the complaints she has about finding an outlet every time you want the window up or down. The 2nd one is especially important if you travel on roads with toll booths if you don't have EZ pass. The drill avoided a lot of arguments in those situations. There are other uses too: if you don't have a digital tuner on the radio you can take the tuning knob off and scan up or down at variable speeds to get just the right station to set that special mood, point it like a gun at mobile texters or road rage lunatics, its the more perfecter solution I don't care what Red Greene says......
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| MIke you talking about hte cordless drill for a power window crank. one of the very few vehicles that ever offered as standard equipment both power and a crank for windows was the Fascel Vega
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| The Peugoet 504 had electric windows with a manual "emergancy" handle that could be used... It wasn't permanatly fitted, but you removed a plug in the door panel and installed the handle. By the way, it was one of the best rideing cars I ever owned... too bad they didn't do a better job of rust-proofing.
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Geoff the 63 Fascel Vega I owned for a while was a supper nice ride. Made in France but the chassis was a 3" chromemoly tublar frame had, quad piston Locheed brakes , engine was a Chrysler 383 push button torque flight trans and Chrysler rear end , torsion bar suspension Dodge steering gear Carter 4 bbl the upolhostery was done by Bently in white leather, Mahoghany and polished brass the window crank fit tucked away in the glove compartment under the built in serving tray holder that held 4 3fingers shot glasses and a 1 pint silver flask
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