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Finally did it,, now the ?s will start.. Expand / Collapse
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Posted 4/5/2009 10:47:42 PM


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Ok, I see that now..thx Aaron..

But, have a real brainteaser now... what all is aluminum INSIDE a ntc350, that would put 3 little aluminum chuncks right at the drain plug? The enigne runs good, sounds good, has good oil pressure, no knocks.. I do know, that at some point, the adaptor between the aux(?) drive and the pump(that aluminum housing) was replaced, and looks about like the same stuff, but dont know that pieces of the old one would get clear down there... maybe it did, and they justr missed them? Doesnt really look like part of a rod....I hope.. Whatever they are from, its cast aluminum, and mostly rough on 3 of the 4 sides. I see that the drain plug doesnt look straight either, or at least the part the plug screws into, maybe its crossthreaded and broken the inner flange..? gd I dont wanna pull the pan..

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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

Post #47417
Posted 4/16/2009 10:29:59 PM


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Got over that hump..I think.. But now, another question. What does this arm with the spring do? Is it some sort of governor? The shop manual doesn't even mention it, or show any pics of it.. I circled it in red..



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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

Post #48302
Posted 4/16/2009 11:25:21 PM


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looks like the compression release lever, but you are missing the top part of the assembly (bell crank?) and cable   Doug 

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Post #48312
Posted 4/17/2009 2:39:05 AM


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Yup, compression release.Thats what the cable zip tied to the aftercooler would have gone to.Heres a couple of pics of the bell crank on a charger engine.You can still use youres, just need one guy on the starter button and one under the hood to pull the release.John

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compression release.jpg (113 views, 111.11 KB)
compression release 2.jpg (88 views, 118.89 KB)

Post #48321
Posted 4/17/2009 9:41:14 AM


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Thanks guys, I never had a compr.release on a 350 (that I saw). That cable on top, was the throttle/idle cable. But I guess the compr cable was the one that is missing in the dash next to the throttle. The C book I got was a little newer, but was supposed to cover all the 855s, even mine. But guess they left out some goodies. I was lookin for a correct year manual, but hadnt found it, so got this one.

Dont suppose I really need a compr.release, as it starts easy enough. Also has the 25A Jakes, but that was kind of covered, but the throttle I need to hook back up, as soon as I remember exactly which point it hooked to on the pump. Got any pic of it? 

Thnaks,Mike.

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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

Post #48335
Posted 4/18/2009 6:32:55 AM


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Kid,

Hand throttle or foot throttle ?.All I have is a pic of the pump on that same charger.With all the fuel pump and fuel line threads weve had on here about Cummins leaking fuel or sucking air there ought to be a few pics on here somewhere that are closer to youre KWs vintage.John

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Post #48435
Posted 4/18/2009 9:08:42 AM


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John, was talking about hand throttle. I think I got it now,, while talking to Glenn, I noticed where the tab on the throttle shaft had been and was broken off. I kind of remember how it was now. But I might search some pics for help. Thanks.

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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

Post #48451
Posted 7/2/2009 12:04:49 AM


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Ok, some updates.. got a few more things done..

Stripped the cab, moved mice out and fumigated..kind of empty lookin..

cleaned up the engine area and cabling

made new cables.. mo powa ooh ooh ooh

/DSCF0161800x600.jpg

DSCF0158800x600.jpg

brightened the aluminum tonite, for polishing

DSCF0159800x600.jpg

replaced those nasty high-priced hoses, with cheaper plastic n high$ connectors

DSCF0165800x600.jpg

mounted new rear flaps, and made new quarter(mid) flaps

DSCF0164800x600.jpg

starting to look better

DSCF0163800x600.jpg

might could look somethin like these when done, color is not exactly the shades I want, but the idea..

DSCF0028-Copy6e-Copy.jpg

kk30/kidnv/p5.jpg

gonna make the headliner and overhead console, van style. Gotta find da seats, cut da hole for sleeper, mount it, new stacks, and gotta do tires yet

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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

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DSCF0028-Copy6e-Copy.jpg (96 views, 55.98 KB)
DSCF0158800x600.jpg (102 views, 110.85 KB)
DSCF0159800x600.jpg (99 views, 111.89 KB)
DSCF0161800x600.jpg (93 views, 135.22 KB)
DSCF0163800x600.jpg (96 views, 104.01 KB)
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DSCF0165800x600.jpg (116 views, 118.50 KB)
p5.jpg (89 views, 57.83 KB)

Post #54972
Posted 7/2/2009 12:05:59 AM


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oh ya, gonna put in some wood flooring on top of padding..

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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

Post #54973
Posted 7/2/2009 12:54:49 AM
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What your doing looks pretty  sharp! Keep up the good work.
Post #54979
Posted 7/2/2009 2:10:15 AM
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Coming along nicely, I see that there is still a copper pipe from the air compressor to the aeroquip that goes to the tank, you should go get the stainless flex line for that instead of the copper it tends to get hard and break at the fitting, often in the middle of nowhere, and it runs very hot you might want to keep other hoses and lines off of it.

I can't get anymore out of it, I've got both sticks hot clear up to the knobs allready.
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Post #54986
Posted 7/2/2009 2:25:06 AM


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Steve, thanks.

Aaron, yep, it already has had a place soldered, just found it yesterday when putting on the new blue line. Was thinking of doing a new piece of 4' copper, as its supposed to help cool it some before the hose. Then it goes to 3/4 plastic back center of cab, then down L side of tranny, underneath it across to R side wet tank. It only touches the others for about 6" under the cab, then for 2' underneath with 2 other lines from the tank. I'm gonna use a cross-bar under there, just like the fuel tanks , to support and protect them. They're still just above the crossover line height, so should be ok.  If I use braided, wont that help keep the heat in, and pass it on?

Wonder if I could put that old tranny oil cooler inline as a radiator? Or maybe a finned radiator tube from a cat60 in place of the copper...lol

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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

Post #54989
Posted 7/2/2009 3:24:11 AM


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Kid,

Looking sharp.Those aluminum rails are just begging for the polishing wheel. 'Course it would only take an extra few months to get everything on both sides unbolted and out of the way, and then you might want to take the cab off so you can get at the top flange easier, and heck, if youve gone that far you might as well get the rest of the stuff out of the way so you can polish them on the inside too.Yup, shouldnt take more than a few months...or years,lol.Sure would be pretty though, could even coat it so you would only have to do it once.Dont need to worry about picking a color when its shiny, shiny goes well with anything,lol.

Im with Aaron on that discharge line.The flex is more reliable and at the velocity the air is moving thru the line you wont notice much temp change.The tranny cooler probably wont hold 120 psi.Best bet for cooling the air is an aluminum first ( wet ) tank.She might already have aluminum air tanks, depending on how she was ordered.You can put an electric discharge ( spitter ) valve on it like the teamster outfits do if you dont want to drain it youreself,lol.Heck,you could replace all the air tanks with aluminum and put spitters on all of them.Theres a few outfits that sell replacement air tanks in the Frame section of Parts and Services.John

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Post #54996
Posted 7/2/2009 10:27:02 AM


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I was just kiddin about the oil cooler...  How hot is hot? If I replace the copper with the braid, which is 4' long, then connect to the 3/4 plastic goin to the wet tank, is it gonna be ok?  It still has the factory wet, just relocated in the R toolbox, connections come out the bottom of it. I replaced the auto-drain, and all the manuals with new ones. dont like spitters. Also put back in, a dry tank that had been removed, and corrected the plumbing.

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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

Post #55013
Posted 7/2/2009 2:52:50 PM
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From a truck garage you can get the correct braided line in several lengths, I've used 36's and then it goes to areoquip hose line not plastic, also if you like put a check valve at the wet tank on the incoming line.

I can't get anymore out of it, I've got both sticks hot clear up to the knobs allready.
www.killcarb.org
Post #55025
Posted 7/2/2009 5:05:44 PM


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Kid,

Whose D4-7U is that? I've got a '49 model but it doesn't look as good as that. 

Dan

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Post #55029
Posted 7/2/2009 6:39:59 PM


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Aaron, copy that, thx.

Dan, not a 7U, its an 1936 RD4  a 4G, mine, and restored from ground up. Still have some xtra 4G parts from the 2nd one. Thanks.

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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

Post #55030
Posted 7/19/2009 4:23:18 PM


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Ok, just a peek.. workin on it still...

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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

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Post #56542
Posted 7/19/2009 4:32:27 PM


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Kid,

Looks sharp.John

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Post #56543
Posted 7/29/2009 2:13:42 PM


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Glenn, while re-painting the engine today, I got a closer look at the metal tag on top of the PT. Some numbers are a little light, but I think I got them, Can you tell me much more about the pump from these? I will try to type them like they appear, spacing and all..

0160   14  5   1030541

AR  12956  2921 -c

the R above might be a B and the 9 in 2921 is real faint but think its a 9. there's a bright bump between the 21 and the - so dont know if something else was supposed to be there or not. Also there is a real big Z stamped in the pump housing right to the L of the plate.

Thanks

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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

Post #57579
Posted 7/30/2009 1:21:18 AM
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160 is the cpl that the fuel pump is built to.

I can't get anymore out of it, I've got both sticks hot clear up to the knobs allready.
www.killcarb.org
Post #57662
Posted 7/30/2009 3:31:06 PM


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And the 2921 c is the fuel code for that pump setting for the engine its on for the specd HP and torque and RPM at a % of torque rise. The pump looks like most other pt pumps but they can have a different gear pump and springs for different fuel codes. I always loved to set one on the test bench and then give it about 20 more psi of fuel and then the driver just loves you. You may not be good for any thing else but the driver cant be told that. Now i wish i had a mack fuel pump stand.

glenn akers
Post #57723
Posted 7/31/2009 12:40:56 AM


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Thanks guys, preciate it. Just thought maybe there was some extra info there I might need to know. So.... some updated pics..

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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

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Post #57794
Posted 1/16/2010 8:26:26 PM


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I finally got 1 set of steps lowered and on. Still have to put the mudflaps back on...The top step tilts up from the back, so I can get the batt.cover off/on.. The bottom of the step will be the same as the tank step bottom, so my chicken lights will be level..

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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

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DSCF0402 [800x600].JPG (119 views, 90.72 KB)
DSCF0403 [800x600].JPG (103 views, 91.98 KB)
DSCF0404 [800x600].JPG (109 views, 92.48 KB)

Post #75276
Posted 1/17/2010 8:42:00 AM


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That looks good Mike, I need to do mine.

Tony, Roaring Gap NC.

1980 W900     Any advice from me is worth what you paid for it!                                     What other people think of me is none of my business.

Post #75314
Posted 1/30/2010 11:11:59 AM


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As already posted in the 'parts wanted section' , I'm still lookin for someone that has W900A BLUE interior cab panels, that would like to trade for my BROWN ones. Doors, 2 corners. I also have the center one, that went under the factory rolldown window..

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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

Post #76678
Posted 1/30/2010 8:55:10 PM


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ok, got some more done today, as it got up to about 42 and my figertips were not getting numb. Finished the steps, added the chickn lights underneath, and added the bird up front. Still lots of small stuff to do, but I think it's lookin better..

Tony, hope these give a better idea. I can measure stuff if you want, and email it...

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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

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Post #76715
Posted 1/30/2010 9:04:36 PM


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Looking good Kid. Hopefully the step will be in on Monday. Any thoughts on putting dual breathers or dual exhaust?

someday we'll get it going
Post #76716
Posted 1/30/2010 10:07:49 PM


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Hank, yep.. I have dual exhaust located for it, just have to get it here. Dont know if I'll put dual breathers on it yet.. My 73 only had one, with dual stacks, and didnt look too bad. But I think I know where there's a set or two if I want to.. Jopefully the step will be here Mon, then and the set of lites to it and mount it, then connect the wires. Thanks.

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1972 KW925 SC350 12513 240WB, restoral in progress, 1936 CAT RD4 w/LPC 4A blade restored ground up

Post #76731
Posted 2/5/2010 1:53:38 PM


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Kid, did you get my email? I have some blue panels.

Tony, Roaring Gap NC.

1980 W900     Any advice from me is worth what you paid for it!                                     What other people think of me is none of my business.

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