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If its a big case, It is most likely brushless... 2 things can cause high cut-in speeds... 1st is too large a pulley, Cat and detroit use a smaller pulley then Cummins... 2nd is they use a seperate set of diodes connected to the stator winding to tell the regulator to turn on.. it uses residual magnetizm to create a voltage in the stator... if one or more of the diodes are bad it will only be "reading" one phase...It uses the voltage thru the diodes to exite the field... so my guess is one or more of these is bad... it should give some charge at idle... even if only 20-30 amps
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Post #20506
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Geoff Weeks (7/21/2008)
Rob (7/20/2008)
How does one distinguish between Delco alternators as to size without a nameplate in place? Mine is a larger frame unit and looks to be a 22SI, 25SI, or so and without taking it to a rebuilder don't know what it is. Rob I don't know... I've got a Delco book at home and I still get confused... 21SI and 22SI are the newer little (almost look like car) alternators with the SAE mount.... 23SI (I think... I could be wrong) is the large brushless with the old press in diodes... the 33 and 34 look similer to the 23 but have the diodes in a "bridge" with heat sink attached...Again brushless... 27SI is the "big" car type found on some medium duty trucks... To make matters worse, there are sub-catagorys... Like 27SI type 100 and type 200.... Some are one wire, some three. Some have the little 4 way cap to set the voltage... If I remember correctly, the 34 SI could be had with the transformer/rectifier assembly to have both 12 and 24 volt outputs.... This is 34 SI TR.... Clear as mud, right???? Hi Geoff, I don't think we are alone trying to figger this one out. The one that I have is marked in permanent marker on the side "OK", so it is apparently been checked out by someone. My complaint is that it takes a while, (approximately eight seconds) to start charging the batteries after engine start. This is of course held at a high idle of about 800 rpm. If the idle is not brought up and held, it never will charge. Once the regulator and field excitation voltage kicks in, it is fine in operation. I've not checked exciter voltage or anything on it, but would like to order brushes, rectifiers and such before disabling the truck. I'll probably just pull it off the engine and take to a shop I use for parts and let them ID it. Thanks, Rob
A larger hammer will surely make it fit....
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Post #20499
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Rob (7/20/2008)
How does one distinguish between Delco alternators as to size without a nameplate in place? Mine is a larger frame unit and looks to be a 22SI, 25SI, or so and without taking it to a rebuilder don't know what it is. Rob I don't know... I've got a Delco book at home and I still get confused... 21SI and 22SI are the newer little (almost look like car) alternators with the SAE mount.... 23SI (I think... I could be wrong) is the large brushless with the old press in diodes... the 33 and 34 look similer to the 23 but have the diodes in a "bridge" with heat sink attached...Again brushless... 27SI is the "big" car type found on some medium duty trucks... To make matters worse, there are sub-catagorys... Like 27SI type 100 and type 200.... Some are one wire, some three. Some have the little 4 way cap to set the voltage... If I remember correctly, the 34 SI could be had with the transformer/rectifier assembly to have both 12 and 24 volt outputs.... This is 34 SI TR.... Clear as mud, right????
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Post #20473
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Too_Krazy (7/20/2008)
Glad it was a bad battery and not another alternator failure. 60 amps seems too small for all the load you put on it. I don't have any vehicles with less than a 105 amp alternator in them. My van even has a 135 amp unit and it does not have a bunch of accessories either. Only power users are the fuel pump and heater fan, no power windows, locks, seats, or anything else. My wifes old car had an 85 amp unit under the hood. Found out it was an 85 unit when the replacement the parts store gave me burned out in less than a week. They gave me a 65 amp unit by mistake as they didn't read the listings properly, the rear defrost was enough extra draw to kill the 65 unit. The 65 was listed for vehicles without rear defrost and the 85 was for vehicles with defrost. My 62 still has the original Leece Neville unit on it and is still working properly. Might want to see about going to a higher rating if the alternator fails again due to diodes going bad.In Truck alternators, I find they use the same diodes regardless of the output... Doesn't make sense to stock more then one for a given alternator case... Higher amps just means more heat on the diodes... At one time the JB2500 series was a 60 amp unit... now they are pulling 145 min off them... Load an alternator anywhere above 40-50% of the rateing and they overheat... A generator will handle 85% or better (because the current is controled externally to a level that will not cause a problem)... With deep cycle batterys a longer-slower charge is better anyway... Start batterys are more like capacitors now a days... they have large but thin plates and can give and receive large current... A high output alternator would not last chargeing a lage deep cyle that has been deeply discharged... (Btdt)... I could take a high output alt and control it with a 60 amp or so generator regulator (or at least the part of the output that goes to the battery... I could pull the running loads off the alternator ahead of the current reg) to slow charge the deep cycle... Where 60 amp would be a problem is running A/C at idle.... Generators run slower and put out little at idle.. Other then a/c and the fridge this truck has little more then trucks of the 60's... many lights are LED on the trailer... I agree 60 would be pushing it, but I think it would work... It wasn't so long ago that 60 was the norm for trucks and high output for cars (spec'd with A/C etc).
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Post #20416
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How does one distinguish between Delco alternators as to size without a nameplate in place? Mine is a larger frame unit and looks to be a 22SI, 25SI, or so and without taking it to a rebuilder don't know what it is. Rob
A larger hammer will surely make it fit....
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Post #20395
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Group: Forum User
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Glad it was a bad battery and not another alternator failure. 60 amps seems too small for all the load you put on it. I don't have any vehicles with less than a 105 amp alternator in them. My van even has a 135 amp unit and it does not have a bunch of accessories either. Only power users are the fuel pump and heater fan, no power windows, locks, seats, or anything else. My wifes old car had an 85 amp unit under the hood. Found out it was an 85 unit when the replacement the parts store gave me burned out in less than a week. They gave me a 65 amp unit by mistake as they didn't read the listings properly, the rear defrost was enough extra draw to kill the 65 unit. The 65 was listed for vehicles without rear defrost and the 85 was for vehicles with defrost. My 62 still has the original Leece Neville unit on it and is still working properly. Might want to see about going to a higher rating if the alternator fails again due to diodes going bad.
DODGE is the perfect thing to put on the front of a truck.
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Post #20386
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RonL (7/19/2008)
Michelle,
How many remember when it was important to see a product tagged in some way, "Made in the USA" or "Made in America".
RonMy wife brought home a plastic toy boat for the daughter to play with in the bathtub and it said MADE IN USA!!!! I couldnt believe it! Was a nice change to see that the other day! I to wonder why we are a throw away society anymore with all the greenie stuff. They probably really hate my old 47 Dodge as its a gas hog polution creating antique obsolete old slow truck. Todd
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Post #20340
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"Heard of electro-dyne but never talked to anyone who used their product... It looks as if their mount for the Big-Cams move it out from the block more then the stock mount... Is this because the case is bigger???? Will it fit on a Cat?"Geoff, The case is big.Really big,lol.Read the spec sheet on their site for dimensions, pretty impressive sight when you lift the hood on a truck that has one.TransCoastal's entire fleet was 3406B powered.Cant remember if they bought brackets ( spacers ) from Electrodyne or if they fabricated their own.Couldnt have been too hard, they switched 24 units over in a few weeks. Didnt know you had enough parts for the air swap, thought maybe you were buying a full (new) kit from IR, was curious about current price.John
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John Costley
ATHS Online Division Charter Member
Sabattus,Maine
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Post #20322
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Michelle Cole (7/19/2008)
Ron, you are so very right with the above statement. Made in USA was a sign of pride and quality. I very well remember when we picked up something and it had made in Japan written on the bottom, we promptly put it back down, as it was a piece of junk. My how things have changed and not for the better.Michelle, I still do that.Its the way I was raised and what I believe.Problem is, sad to say, some of the foriegn stuff is better now when it comes to around the house ( TVs, Stereos,ect.).John
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John Costley
ATHS Online Division Charter Member
Sabattus,Maine
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Post #20321
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Geoff that is one of the reasons I never cared much for GM products is they use a volt meter instead of an ammeter even a dang Idiot light will tell you if it is charging or not
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Post #20315
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