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ATHS Member
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| the factory shutdown lever on top a the gov housing onna 71 [and i supose 92] ..seres detroit fit right on the side the cat pump;;;;;; .... the splines even match up
jim k tomer .......the altar boy
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| More pictures... I hadn't planed on replaceing the exhaust at this point, but the stack bracket the P/O had installed had been too close to the cab, so he added off set brackets but was still too close and now the weight was off center. The stack bracket was from a Astro if I remember correctly and was cracking in a number of places. The replacements are from the 9670 parts truck I cut up... The othe pictures are of the starter button and a "non CAT approved" shut down lever I made so I can remove the solonoid from the Injection pump. When thats done, it will not require any electricty to start and run. The lever will be operated via a cable from the cabin... Like an old Mack or Detroit.
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Geoff Weeks (8/9/2008)
I'm suprized that would fix it (at least for long), because when it starts chargeing, it does the same thing as "flashing" the rotor... When you "flash" the rotor you are supplying + battery voltage to the side of the coil that normalll recieves + voltage thru the diode trio. In otherwords once the alternator starts chargeing, it is doing the same (supplying + to the + brush... the - brush as grounded thru the regulator until the voltage exceeds the regulator set voltage at which point the "ground side" is modulated to control the magnetic field and therefor output.) Flashing is done when there isn't enough residual magnatism for the alt to ever start chargeing (not enough to self-exite)I certainly agree. It didn't seem to add up for me either. I'm thinking that I have a high resistance connection internal to the package and it still needs to come apart. It is strange but this thing starts to charge just as soon as it is rotating now without delay. I do know this truck sat for 17 years without being started so maybe corrosion has a hand in the equation. Rob
A larger hammer will surely make it fit....
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| I'm suprized that would fix it (at least for long), because when it starts chargeing, it does the same thing as "flashing" the rotor... When you "flash" the rotor you are supplying + battery voltage to the side of the coil that normalll recieves + voltage thru the diode trio. In otherwords once the alternator starts chargeing, it is doing the same (supplying + to the + brush... the - brush as grounded thru the regulator until the voltage exceeds the regulator set voltage at which point the "ground side" is modulated to control the magnetic field and therefor output.) Flashing is done when there isn't enough residual magnatism for the alt to ever start chargeing (not enough to self-exite)
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Rob (7/23/2008)
[quote] John Costley (7/23/2008)
Damn thing took 13 seconds, (measured with stopwatch) at 800 engine rpm to "pick up" last evening before I moved the truck. Time to get a move on a repair! Thanks, Rob Followed the proceedure in the delco manual to "recharge" the residual magnetisim in the rotor and now that alternator picks up immediately. Only "flashed" the terminal for just a short period of time from the + terminal, to the "I" terminal, (12VDC negative ground), and that seems to have taken care of my problem. Rob
A larger hammer will surely make it fit....
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| Forgot you last question... It uses -20 Hose on JIC fittings.
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| The way the system works, a small "pilot" line runs to the start button, from there to the nose of the starter, where in ingages the drive in the ring gear (and via "porting" in the drive "piston") then sends a signal via another small line back to the relay valve. In this way, the starter is never turning until the drive is all the way into the ring gear. On my 9670 I used a small air solonoid (like for a fan clutch) operated off the orig electric starter solonoid wire in place of the manual (air) button in the cab. They also make full electric relay valves for starters that don't use "pre engaged" starter drives. I have found it possable to run the batterys down to a point that the solonoid will not "pull in". As far as pipe or freezeing the line, A good air drier is all that is required. Anytime you have a large pressure drop you get a temp drop but if there is little moisture no problem. Unlike a air-turbine starter, a vane motor can pass a little dirt or ice without risk of damage. Pipe is recomended for long runs because of its large volume for size ( thinner wall thickness then hose). In the years I have had the system on the 9670, I have never had a moisture problem. Shape corners are to be avoided because of their restriction to flow, rather then ice biuld-up. The air for the system is taken after the air drier and wet tank and before the two service tanks, and if all is working as it should, there is very little mositure left. I have never had anything to drain from the storage tank. (It is so dry that I have let it go a year or more and had no water to drain.) The outlet to the realy valve is 1/2 way up the side of the tank, so any moisture that is in the tank tends to stay there.
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| Geoff, Kinda figured thats how it worked when I saw the valve on the tank.Wonder if there is an electric version of that valve so you can use a normal key switch/ starter button ?.I dont think I would want to use hard pipe, be too afraid of it frosting in cold weather,same reason I would avoid elbows and junctions when possible.What ID size line will you be running ?.John
_____________________________________________ John Costley ATHS Online Division Charter Member Sabattus,Maine
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| No, the line isn't under pressure until the large relay valve on the tank is opened. So yes, it has to be "charged" each time. This has some effect on how many or how long the "starts" on each tankful. Of greater concern, is the resistance to flow in the long hose, but this can be overcome by useing pipe if it is a problem. On my 9670 the hose is fairly long and it has never been a problem. The whole idea is to keep the parts that are charged all the time to a mimimum. This greatly effects how long a tank will hold a charge. To this aim, I run a single piece of Poly tube from the tank to the start button... each connection is a potential leak. The same valves are used when compressed natural gas is used to power the starter, and as you can imagine, any leak there would be un acceptable.
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| Geoff, Will she have air in the line, up to the starter then held, or is air held at that valve shown on the tank ?.Just curious if that long line will need to be charged every time you hit the button.John
_____________________________________________ John Costley ATHS Online Division Charter Member Sabattus,Maine
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