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| Just a little update... I was haveing a slight (1-2 sec) delay in the relay valve... Release the button and the motor continued to spin for 1-2 sec... Thought I may have too much (signal) line from the button back to the relay valve, so added a quick release (like for brakes) valve in the signal line... helps some.. but the last two time I started it, the relay valve sticks open and drain the tank, then shuts. Because the starter pinion is move by signal pressure, the pinion retracts from the ring gear but the air motor continues to turn. Got home and pulled the relay valve apart. Real easy to work on, the valve is biult a lot like a large master cyl for hyd brakes... Anyway, the last one to assemble it has gone heavy on the assemble lube (grease), which over the years had become like RTV... Cleaned it out and the starter reacts much faster then it ever did before... I thru a few new O rings in it while I had it apart, but don't think it needed it. Put some spare O rings in a bag in the truck... It would be very easy to "re biuld" in a parking lot... I'll have to see of Sealco makes a "Kit" for them (if I ever need the stainless spring)... Very simple and easy to work on... With the valve acting fast, you don't use much air on a normal start... The guage only drops a few Lbs... It almost fires as fast as you can release the button.... as soon as you hear it start to crank, let off and it is running.
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From what I've seen full fielding an alternator will produce maximum output possible but full field current is not necessarily needed for full output from the alternator. Flashing the rotor with full voltage will leave enough charge for quite a while but usually even under full load the alternator field does not see full voltage. The speed of the alternator above idle will produce more output with less field current input than needed for the same output at idle. The field will get a higher gauss residual charge from flashing it than just letting it run under normal load. Used everyday you won't notice any change in performance but as Rob's case shows prolonged periods of inactivity will show a drop in performance. Kinda like everything else, use it or lose it. Now where did my mind go?
DODGE is the perfect thing to put on the front of a truck.
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Geoff Weeks (8/21/2008)
I'm glad it fixed it... I wonder what I am not understanding about "flashing" it vs. the regulator "full fielding" when full charge is called for? May be there is some "biult in" resistance when the regulator "full fields" that is bypassed when "flashing"... Just enough to prevent magnitizeing the rotor enough???Don't know do you?I can't claim to know either. I have seen "cold solder joints" many times in years past, along with encapsulation material breakdown from age allowing foreign intrusion. I've not had this alternator off of the engine nor apart so these are SWAG. Rob
A larger hammer will surely make it fit....
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| I'm glad it fixed it... I wonder what I am not understanding about "flashing" it vs. the regulator "full fielding" when full charge is called for? May be there is some "biult in" resistance when the regulator "full fields" that is bypassed when "flashing"... Just enough to prevent magnitizeing the rotor enough???Don't know do you?
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[quote]Rob (8/9/2008)
[quote]Geoff Weeks (8/9/2008)
I'm suprized that would fix it (at least for long), because when it starts chargeing, it does the same thing as "flashing" the rotor... Started the truck again this evening for the first time in over a week. As soon as I released the ignition key, the thing is charging at idle. Rob
A larger hammer will surely make it fit....
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| Finished up the install yesterday...the hose is the most expencive part... $11/ft. One picture shows the air motor next to the MT-42 it is replaceing. I had to re-index the nose cone to fit the CAT (came from a Cummins). The nose end uses a roller bearing (unlike the MT 42 which uses a bronze bushing... which was worn out) so I re-lubed it when apart. The MT-42 weighs aprox 60 lbs while the air weighs aprox 40 lbs... The air line weighs less then the copper battery cables. The real weight saveings come in batteys... While batterys are not needed strickly speaking... some sort of "ballest load" is needed for a chargeing system to work properly... It could be is little as a big capacitor or small "lawn & garden" battery to as big a battery bank as you can fit. It all depends on how much "engine off" battery time you want. I am going to use the 3 remaining group 31's in the truck now. I did, however remove one set of battery cables... It had two sets of + and- going right to the starter... This brings up the only difficulty I had. What to use for a tie point??? All the wires went to the starter... It was the main point where all the power was connected. I could replace the + cable with a 4 gauge from the batterys (as 140 amps is the max it would carry) but used one of the 00 gauge cables that the truck came with... I used one of the starter bolts as a - tie point... both block and frame "bonding straps" and the - cable from the battery tie in here. I need to make a + tie point as well... Right now, I just have the wires "bolted" together and taped up. Lube (diesel) it taken from the IP return line, and gives the motor a shot diesel every crank
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| Well, today I hooked up the manual shutdown and made a block-off plate for the solonoid... hadn't planned on removeing quite yet but the studs crumbled when I tried to remove the wires, so I had little choice but to complete the job! The air tank has been holding 120 psi for over 24 hours... I had planned to install a new check-valve (this one would leak when I first hooked up the tank), but seams to be holding... All thats left is to run the large air-hose and install the starter.
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tundra (8/9/2008)
the factory shutdown lever on top a the gov housing onna 71 [and i supose 92] ..seres detroit fit right on the side the cat pump;;;;;; .... the splines even match up Good to know.... I don't have a spare at the moment (don't want to rob parts from my 6-71's)
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| If absolute dependability is required, use the Mack part. Rob
A larger hammer will surely make it fit....
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tundra (8/9/2008)
the factory shutdown lever on top a the gov housing onna 71 [and i supose 92] ..seres detroit fit right on the side the cat pump;;;;;; .... the splines even match up So will a mack throdle lever he ha.
glenn akers
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