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| Stan, Thanks for that link.Nice to see a video of the product.John
_____________________________________________ John Costley ATHS Online Division Charter Member Sabattus,Maine
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| John and Geoff, And anybody else interested in the graphite/paint stuff. For the last 6 months or so I've been using a different brand of this stuff on my car-hauler. It's called Slide N Glide, and it stays on much longer than the Slip-Plate I used to use. One place to get it is autohaulersupply. Maybe I can put a link. Stan http://www.slideandglide.com/
Started out with nuthin'........still have most of it.
Stan
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Geoff Weeks (9/6/2008)
John Costley (9/6/2008)
Geoff, Just wondering out loud, if a man was doing a rebuild on an air valve, or any air operated equipment, that required dry assembly or very light assembly lube, and he had time to paint ( very lightly ) the internal parts, as well as the internal housing cavity, with something like slip plate and then let it fully cure for hardness, would it aid in keeping any air system gunk from building up as well as giving a slick operating surface for internal moving parts John I would not! 1st you would get dust and gunk into the system. The graphite paint doesn't really hold very well. Once it drys it is like haveing loose graphite with a slight binder in the "paint". Works great on sliders and 5th wheels but needs to be re-painted fairly often. Geoff, Thats what I wanted confirmed.Hard and slick would be good, but powdery wouldnt work so hot.Thanks.John
_____________________________________________ John Costley ATHS Online Division Charter Member Sabattus,Maine
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| The relay valves and push buttons used in gas service (as opposed to air) are plated as some gas can be corrisive. If you think how many times a brake relay valve opperates in the normal day to day operation of a truck vs. the few times a day the starter operates, wear doesn't seam to be a problem.
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John Costley (9/6/2008)
Geoff, Just wondering out loud, if a man was doing a rebuild on an air valve, or any air operated equipment, that required dry assembly or very light assembly lube, and he had time to paint ( very lightly ) the internal parts, as well as the internal housing cavity, with something like slip plate and then let it fully cure for hardness, would it aid in keeping any air system gunk from building up as well as giving a slick operating surface for internal moving parts John I would not! 1st you would get dust and gunk into the system. The graphite paint doesn't really hold very well. Once it drys it is like haveing loose graphite with a slight binder in the "paint". Works great on sliders and 5th wheels but needs to be re-painted fairly often.
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chrisL (9/5/2008)
I'm still running a generator on mine. It won't charge below 900 rpm. Generators don't charge at low speed (or not very much) this is normal, it doesn't mean anything is wrong
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| Geoff, Just a thought, out of curiousity.If I remember right, you used ( tried ) or are still using a paint on graphite on youre fifth wheel, like this http://www.slipplate.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1 Just wondering out loud, if a man was doing a rebuild on an air valve, or any air operated equipment, that required dry assembly or very light assembly lube, and he had time to paint ( very lightly ) the internal parts, as well as the internal housing cavity, with something like slip plate and then let it fully cure for hardness, would it aid in keeping any air system gunk from building up as well as giving a slick operating surface for internal moving parts ?.Sliplate claims that their product seals the surface its applied to and acts as an anti corrosive on aluminum, and Ive heard that grease wont stick to it.The big question would be does it wear off in flakes that could bind things up or as dust that would pass thru the system ?.Wouldnt mind hearing anyones thoughts on this one.It would be nice to rebuild something once and have it last longer and work better than a factory unit.John
_____________________________________________ John Costley ATHS Online Division Charter Member Sabattus,Maine
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| I'm still running a generator on mine. It won't charge below 900 rpm. I had the alternator rebuilding shop next door turn the commutator, put in brushes and bearings to the tune of $20. I did have the voltage regulator stop working correctly. I tried to adjust it and couldn't make it work right so I had to buy a new one for $50
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| The air motor gets 3cc's of diesel every crank, but the relay valve doesn't get any lube execpt for whatever the compressor passes. should have added : I didn't have to dis-connect any lines or remove it from the truck to work on it
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Geoff Weeks (9/5/2008)
Just a little update... I was haveing a slight (1-2 sec) delay in the relay valve... Release the button and the motor continued to spin for 1-2 sec... Thought I may have too much (signal) line from the button back to the relay valve, so added a quick release (like for brakes) valve in the signal line... helps some.. but the last two time I started it, the relay valve sticks open and drain the tank, then shuts. Because the starter pinion is move by signal pressure, the pinion retracts from the ring gear but the air motor continues to turn. Got home and pulled the relay valve apart. Real easy to work on, the valve is biult a lot like a large master cyl for hyd brakes... Anyway, the last one to assemble it has gone heavy on the assemble lube (grease), which over the years had become like RTV... Cleaned it out and the starter reacts much faster then it ever did before... I thru a few new O rings in it while I had it apart, but don't think it needed it. Put some spare O rings in a bag in the truck... It would be very easy to "re biuld" in a parking lot... I'll have to see of Sealco makes a "Kit" for them (if I ever need the stainless spring)... Very simple and easy to work on... With the valve acting fast, you don't use much air on a normal start... The guage only drops a few Lbs... It almost fires as fast as you can release the button.... as soon as you hear it start to crank, let off and it is running. I learned a few years ago if you build a engine for a spare dont use luberplate. I use it to put brgs up ever day but if it sets for a few years you will have to pull the brgs and clean because it will set up. I like to use a waterless grease like slicone grease for o/rings and it will stay longer and air and moisture will not destroy it. Did you put a lubercator on it?
glenn akers
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