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Drill Bits for Metal

Posted By tomchristopher71 Friday, May 14, 2010 2:46 AM
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tomchristopher71
 Posted Friday, May 14, 2010 2:46 AM
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Can anyone recommend a good brand of drill bit for metal work? I bought a carbide bit(Guy at store recommended) and it seems like it take forever to drill through 1/8 inch steel. Is it my bit or my drill?




TonyClemens
 Posted Friday, May 14, 2010 3:02 AM
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I buy US made drill bits from a welding supply store. Usually get High Speed Steel bits for drilling carbon steel. If you're drilling hardened steel or stainless steel you need to get cobalt steel bits. Don't try to drill at a high speed, slow down.

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Dennis Wells AKA Smiley
 Posted Friday, May 14, 2010 4:26 AM
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Make sure you don't have the drill in reverse.

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peterj
 Posted Friday, May 14, 2010 4:28 AM
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lube, lube, lube.............

pb blaster, 3in1 oil, etc.......

i buy the cheep black ones from lowes in the multi pack, i'm not good a sharpening, so i buy the cheep ones and throw them away..

you would be surprized how long they last when used with lube..

 


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Aaron
 Posted Friday, May 14, 2010 5:30 AM
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I buy the gold Mikata ones, and use an amflo fluid mix with water, no burn ups and no mess to clean up later, I pulled letric drill sharpner out of mothballs the other day just for grins, those things don't impress me, but I set it up and tried it, wow, it put an edge back on the bits, but you have to watch that you don't get the point off center, I even broke a gold bit and thought what the heck, it cleaned it up and put a point back on.

I can't get anymore out of it, I've got both sticks hot clear up to the knobs allready.
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Geoff Weeks
 Posted Friday, May 14, 2010 5:45 AM
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For drilling use tap lube (Ez-tap or other cutting lube) not oil. you want the bit to bite into the steel and stay cool. Also, it is hard to apply enough force useing a hand drill (on larger size holes) to keep the bit cutting instead of slideing over the surface (and generating heat). While I have cut 9/16" holes with a 1/2" air drill, mag drills are better for applying enough force to keep the bit cutting. For smaller holes, an air drill will do ok but be careful not to break the bit.
glenn akers
 Posted Friday, May 14, 2010 6:24 AM
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Dennis Wells AKA Smiley (5/14/2010)
Make sure you don't have the drill in reverse.
         Sounds like you know someone that may have seen that done. One time i had a man selling tools demostrat a portable hand crnked drill press to me. He asked me to supply him a bit from my index of common bits of 3/16 in size and a cummins piston wrist pin. He set it up in the portagable vise and press and by hand crank he drilled a hole in the pin untill i said to him i see.It is a pressure and speed thing as mush as the drill bit.I purchased one from him just to set up on top of cummins blocks to drill broken head bolts. I also used it to drill broken axle flange bolts from alummin hubs.If any one has done that you know in most cases it is very hard to do.I no longer have that tool but advice any one that knows were to get them to buy it. 15 years ago it was around 450 dollars.It was the most amaszing tool i have seen.This man that sold me this tool was the owner of a machine shops son. He was a traving saleman and i hope they done good with this product but have never seen on sence.

Also i too for years did use oil on bits and will say this it is better than being dry but found not to many years ago that cutting oil is better and have wondered often what is in it that makes the difference.


glenn akers
Friday, May 14, 2010 6:27 AM by glenn akers
Freight_train From Bama
 Posted Friday, May 14, 2010 6:44 AM
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yep,The bigger the chips the better.You can tell when your not doing it right by the fine sand grain chips you make.When you go at 2000RPM with a hand drill all you are doing is making heat like using a stick and bow to make a fire.Keep it as slow as possible.500RPM or less.I know it sounds slow but I cut holes up to 6 inches in diameter in solid cast iron at 50-100RPM range in my previous job.We used a water based coolant in a hand bottle.Steam is good.Steam is the water absorbing the heat and taking it away.You don't want to "Lube" the drill you want to "cool" the drill and work piece.

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Freight_train From Bama
 Posted Friday, May 14, 2010 6:48 AM
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oh,also you gotta watch for the material too.Don't use Carbide on Iron.Use high speed.Carbide and the iron will magically convert to hardened carbon steel.Found that out working in machine shops too.High speed steel is good for about anything we will encounter.Carbide would be good if your cutting hundreds of holes in steel.Then you got the really cool stuff like Cobalt insterted drills,and powdered metal inserted drills but I don't think many people on here will be needing that kinda fancy toys.....Plus some of the tools I use cost more than what most of us spend on a new project truck.....Thank God it ain't my money.....:laugh:

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Wolfcreek_Steve
 Posted Friday, May 14, 2010 7:56 AM
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FT has it right! when in doubt, slow the drill down and push harder. (you want a nice curling chip) watch the color of your chips, light golden color is OK, brown or blue is a No No. Cutting oil or fluid is very different from lubricating oil. Basically cutting oil has an extremely high film strength with additives to make it stay between the cutting tool and the chip.

Carbide tipped masonry drills are not sharpened at the correct angles to cut metal, but I have resharpened them (requires a special grinding wheel) for use on hardened steel (file hard) with some success.

When drilling cast iron don't use any cutting oil or fluid, it will form a slurry that is very abrasive and literally grind the tip of your drill, instead use compressed air to cool the drill and flush away the chips. ALWAYS PROTECT YOUR EYES WHEN USING COMPRESSED AIR.

When asked how fast to run a drill, I say run a 1" drill 200 rpms with flood coolant 1/2 that speed with squirt coolant, 1/4 of the 200 rpms with out coolant and 1/2 of that if you don't know what you're doing.
these numbers would be doubled for a 1/2" drill and doubled again for a 1/4" drill.
These are conservative, but we aren't running machining centers here. LOL

Small drills I use what ever I find laying around the shop I work at. (we don't resharpen any drill under 3/8") larger I pick up used in swap meets. You can often find taper shank drills cheap in swap meets because not every one has the equipment to use them. Hint: the shanks are soft and can be turned straight on a lathe.


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