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1938 Fargo

Posted By someguy Sunday, August 16, 2009 7:18 AM
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Bruce Ohnstad
 Posted Saturday, February 08, 2020 4:00 PM
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good work on the frame. They are hard to work because of the complex hollow internals. For curves, I've found that cutting the curve on a flat sheet and welding the outer and inner surfaces along the corners works well. Keep up the updates,

Bruce

1932 White 643 restored in the working museum
FredD
 Posted Saturday, February 08, 2020 12:39 PM
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How exciting to have those pictures. You did some very good fab work on that windshield frame.


Fred

Ahhh, there's nothing like the smell of diesel fumes in the morning.

1989 Mack MH 612
someguy
 Posted Saturday, February 08, 2020 7:51 AM
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Here is a cool set of photos (you may have to zoom in) of the Fargo in the 40ies and later.The little girl in the bonnet is my Mom and the boy is my uncle that really liked the Fargo and drove it a lot. Seeing it again last summer brought tears to his eyes.
 Old Frago Family pics.jpg (33 views, 77.55 KB)
someguy
 Posted Saturday, February 08, 2020 7:49 AM
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Hi Guys,

I spent the Christmas break tackling the job I looked forward to the least. I managed to repair all the rust in the windshield frame.

After 40 hours of tig welding grinding and filing the result was fairly acceptable.
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someguy
 Posted Monday, May 13, 2019 5:55 PM
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I managed to find some seals for the shocks through an industrial supplier I deal with at work. Its just a modern dual lip seal made by Timken.
I also purchased some new shock eye bushings from energy suspension and they seem reasonably good quality.


I thought I would include a pic of the shock gland tool I fabbed up when I saw the price of and original one.
http://forums.aths.org/Uploads/Images/4e798d2f-9946-4f25-953a-d9de.jpg
someguy
 Posted Sunday, April 07, 2019 3:29 PM
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While I was in the front wheel well repairing some broken fender brackets I couldn't leave the crusty old shocks looking and performing like garbage so I took them out and cleaned them up. The shop manual says that they are rebuildable, but I haven't been able to find any info on the seals or kits for them.

Anybody out there have any insight into this.
The seals are the 2 large round parts on the bottom to the right of the rows of small parts. There is also some sealing washer rings that get squished inside the tube to seal the packing nut.


You can see in the upper left I made a seal nut wrench to get the shock apart. After looking at a wrench in the manual I whippid one up out of some flat iron and keystock. It work really well and was virtually free.

Sorry for the crappy pic, but it gets the point across.




http://forums.aths.org/Uploads/Images/65a27238-b0e1-4abe-b825-fef7.JPG
someguy
 Posted Sunday, February 03, 2019 11:53 AM
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I actually had to destroy one of the knobs to learn how it works. it was held on with a blob of lead so it was destined to be replaced anyhow.
Sunday, February 03, 2019 11:55 AM by someguy
someguy
 Posted Sunday, February 03, 2019 11:53 AM
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I managed to get the knobs off. if you look closely on the side of the knob there is a small slot that you can get an o-ring tool into to push the tab on what is basically a push on nut and it slides off. like the image more or less.



http://forums.aths.org/Uploads/Images/3c1ab50b-1a9f-445a-a401-d2bf.png
cat herder
 Posted Saturday, February 02, 2019 4:19 PM
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some times light switches have a spring loaded button under the switch to remove knob and stem. not sure on your model? great truck! good luck.
someguy
 Posted Saturday, February 02, 2019 3:19 PM
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Anybody around these parts have any insight into how to remove the knobs from the dash light and headlight switches?

http://forums.aths.org/Uploads/Images/c7fa9f14-2037-4a0d-ba87-c2b7.JPG



Its not super obvious to me and even the shop manual doesn't cover it. I just don't want to damage anything.

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