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Gas Engine Troubleshooting

Posted By TonyClemens Thursday, July 31, 2008 2:01 PM
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TonyClemens
 Posted Thursday, July 31, 2008 2:01 PM
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I've been working quite a bit on my '57 White WC22PLT. I flushed the engine and radiator twice and added new antifreeze. Bought new S-W gauges for engine temp and oil pressure. Pulled the thermostat when I flushed the engine and checked with a thermometer to make sure it opened at the correct temp. The engine has good oil pressure (60psi) and holds about 175deg engine temp.

I have changed the oil twice since I bought it last summer. I have some lifter noise so I recently added two quarts of Rislone to the oil and a pint of Chevron Techron to the gas to hopefully clean the valves. The previous owner had installed new points, plug wires and condenser and also had the carb rebuilt.  I installed new plugs. Yesterday I put in a new coil.

The problem is that the engine runs smooth until you rev it higher, then it starts running rough. I thought the coil might be the problem at the higher revs but it's still not running smooth. I'm going to do a compression test tomorrow after I run the engine and get it hot.

1959 White 4400TD, 1956 White WC22PLT, 1964 White 4200 winch truck

President, East Texas Wildcatters Chapter

glenn akers
 Posted Thursday, July 31, 2008 2:30 PM
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I guess you are using a straight 30w oil and maybe you know that engine has hydractic lifters also. If you have a cylinder with low compression you need to check the lifters before declaring a burnt valve or bad ring.  I was around them some in the 60s but dont remember that much about them but know to make sure about the lifters and a compression test. I know how to tell weather it is valves or rings by pumpimg alittle oil in the cylinders after a test to see if compression comes up.If compression comes upon the 2nd test then it is rings.

glenn akers
TonyClemens
 Posted Thursday, July 31, 2008 2:47 PM
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I'm using 30wt Rotella oil. The previous owner had replaced some lifters, don't know how many. I'll post the results of the compression test tomorrow. I'm hoping maybe the Rislone will help if it is the valves sticking.

1959 White 4400TD, 1956 White WC22PLT, 1964 White 4200 winch truck

President, East Texas Wildcatters Chapter
Park Olson
 Posted Thursday, July 31, 2008 2:54 PM
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        just a thot', is the distributer advance working?   ,,how about a vacuum check?

I''m an expert now, I didn''t have anything left over this time.
TonyClemens
 Posted Thursday, July 31, 2008 3:02 PM
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I've wondered about the vacuum advance but I don't know how to check it. I'm pretty light on the mechanic skills, afraid if I get it apart it might not get put back together correctly.

1959 White 4400TD, 1956 White WC22PLT, 1964 White 4200 winch truck

President, East Texas Wildcatters Chapter
Too_Krazy
 Posted Thursday, July 31, 2008 3:07 PM
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Check the ignition timing and the dwell angle. The points may be set wrong and the engine will start to sputter when running fast. Also run the engine at night with the hood up in a dark area and rev it up while watching the ignition wires from coil to plugs. When the engine revs up you may see some arcing that is robbing the plugs of the voltage they need. Doesn't matter that the wires are new as I've seen brand new wires make a pretty light show under the hood at night and caused the engine to run rough. A plugged/restricted fuel supply may also be starving the engine at high speeds. My Plymouth would go through a set of wires every six months and cause the same thing to happen (heat would deteriorate the wires) and a coil yearly for the same reason. Had a 195 thermostat in it, couldn't run it lower as the ignition module would have fits at lower temps.

 

 

 

DODGE is the perfect thing to put on the front of a truck.

Too_Krazy
 Posted Thursday, July 31, 2008 3:09 PM
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You can check the vacuum advance by holding the timing light on the crank pulley and sucking on the hose coming from the advance chamber. You check the mechanical advance by blocking off the vacuum advance line and reving the engine while aiming the timing light on the timing marks. Mechanical will give about 7 degrees advance but vacuum will be more like 20 degrees.

 

 

 

DODGE is the perfect thing to put on the front of a truck.

FredD
 Posted Thursday, July 31, 2008 3:12 PM
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Tony, I sent Pat 2 sets of lifters for that engine as well I remember. He damaged the first set and then I sent him another. Of course, I don't know the problem cylinder.

Fred

 

Fred

Ahhh, there's nothing like the smell of diesel fumes in the morning.

1989 Mack MH 612

TonyClemens
 Posted Friday, August 01, 2008 8:46 AM
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Fred, I knew Pat changed out some lifters, don't remember if he changed out all of them or as needed. I know he did a lot of quality work on the engine and wiring.

I warmed up the engine to normal temp and did a compression test. Didn't squirt any oil in the cylinders. Starting at the front of the engine by the radiator the numbers were: 95, 100, 105, 105, 95 and 100. The engine is running rougher since I put a bottle of Chevron Techron in the tank and the Rislone in the crankcase.

1959 White 4400TD, 1956 White WC22PLT, 1964 White 4200 winch truck

President, East Texas Wildcatters Chapter

Park Olson
 Posted Friday, August 01, 2008 3:30 PM
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      Don't know what would be spec on that, but 100 or so is kinda' puny, a vacuum check would tell about valve operation, it will affect compression. A basic check of the advance mech. is to try to turn the dist. rotor, if it won't move a ways & spring back, it is stuck to the internal shaft, gummed up or rust. If it moves, put some vaccum to the diaphragm to see if it moves the rotor a bit, that's advance.

I''m an expert now, I didn''t have anything left over this time.

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