General Discussion     Tech Questions     Parts & Services     Suggestions/Ideas     Help & Website Instructions     Blogs    

Truck & Transportation History

Home Search Tags


Autocar Horn Button

Posted By Day Radebaugh Tuesday, July 16, 2013 8:56 AM
Add to Favorites0
Author Message
Day Radebaugh
 Posted Tuesday, July 16, 2013 8:56 AM
ATHS Member

ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)

Group: Forum User
Last Active: Tuesday, December 24, 2013 10:43 AM
Posts: 18, Visits: 88
Restoring an '80 DC9364, and trying to get the (electric) horn to work. Pretty sure the horn button is not making reliable contact.

Question: how to get that horn button out. Rather than pry on it, and ruin it, thought i'd ask first. Do those three holes down in the steering wheel have anything to do with it?

thanks

Day Radebaugh
 AC10.jpg (904 views, 222.23 KB)
 AC1.jpg (878 views, 202.57 KB)
Cam
 Posted Tuesday, July 16, 2013 9:50 AM
ATHS Member

ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)

Group: Forum User
Last Active: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 6:14 AM
Posts: 997, Visits: 894
Before you do all this, confirm that there is a wire attached to the steering column someplace down low. Find it, remove it and ground it against bare metal, or use a test light to ground it. If the horn doesn't sound, something else is wrong. All the horn button does is complete a ground circuit. I can't speak for Autocars, but on Peterbilts the ground triggers a relay. The relay can be bad, too, so can the horn.

If the wire grounds, and the horn sounds, then the problem is in the column. It can be the horn button, the wire in the column, or the fixture where the wire attaches to the the column. There is a rotating contact there. If the horn sounds intermittently depending upon the steering wheel's position, it is that contact.

If you're sure the horn button needs to come out:

Make a note of the position of the horn button relative to the wheel, you may want to put a small piece of masking tape on the wheel and on the button, that line up. This way you can see how much you've rotated the button relative to the wheel. Push down hard and use your thumbs or palm to turn the horn button counterclockwise, about a sixth of a turn. Try to apply pressure on the black part of the button, not on the tin, if at all avoidable. What you are doing is rotating three plastic tabs on the horn button past (depending upon the style) either 3 rubber tabs, or 3 wire tabs. I'm guessing an '80 has the rubber tabs. Once you're past them, which can take quite a bit of pressure, the horn button will either slightly pop up, or lay there to be removed. Whatever you do, don't try to pry it up, as you mess up the wheel and the tabs.

When you get it out, there will be the button itself, the plastic piece with the tin Acar emblem in it, 1-2 pieces of brass, and a spring, or remnants of a spring. Write down the order those go in right away or take pics.
Tuesday, July 16, 2013 9:56 AM by Cam
Day Radebaugh
 Posted Tuesday, July 16, 2013 10:45 AM
ATHS Member

ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)

Group: Forum User
Last Active: Tuesday, December 24, 2013 10:43 AM
Posts: 18, Visits: 88
Cam:

Thanks for the help. I'm fairly sure it's the button, but here's the evidence. There is a wire going up the column. My horn relay, mounted below steering column, has three terminals. As far as I can determine, middle one supplies power, outside one goes up in column, and other outside one goes out to horn. Terminal going to wire in column shows +12V, and goes to about +1.5V depending on where I press on horn button. When this wire gets to about +1V, relay kicks over and the terminal going to horn goes to +12V. Conclusion: relay wired up correctly, trying to work, but horn button not making reliable contact.

Will try your procedure for removing horn button. I've fiddled with a number of these, and understand the delicacy.

Many thanks for the advice.

Day Radebaugh
Tony Bullard
 Posted Wednesday, July 17, 2013 3:29 AM
ATHS Member

ATHS Member - (94,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (94,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (94,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (94,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (94,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (94,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (94,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (94,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (94,604 reputation)

Group: Forum User
Last Active: Wednesday, December 16, 2020 1:45 AM
Posts: 916, Visits: 4,793
If "relay kicks over and the terminal going to horn goes to +12V. Conclusion: relay wired up correctly," the button is doing its job, energizing the relay, and power is available to the horn but the HORN is not working. Check horn ground and sand the vibrator contacts.

Tony Bullard, Chelsea Vermont
''''''''34 Ford BB restored,
''''''''62 Autocar DC870H restored
Day Radebaugh
 Posted Wednesday, July 17, 2013 1:42 PM
ATHS Member

ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)

Group: Forum User
Last Active: Tuesday, December 24, 2013 10:43 AM
Posts: 18, Visits: 88
Actually, problem turned out to be both in horn button and relay. Relay was getting tired, didn't want to reset, so replaced it. However, took horn button out safely, thanks to suggestions, found a whole bunch of gunk and rust on plate. Yes, the tabs were rubber, but in good shape. Took off the plate and shined up all parts, and now she works fine. Thanks for all the help--against all odds, i didn't trash the horn button!!

Question: is this the horn button apparatus associated with ross steering boxes? Just curious.....

Day Radebaugh
Wolfcreek_Steve
 Posted Wednesday, July 17, 2013 2:29 PM
ATHS Member

ATHS Member - (277,306 reputation)ATHS Member - (277,306 reputation)ATHS Member - (277,306 reputation)ATHS Member - (277,306 reputation)ATHS Member - (277,306 reputation)ATHS Member - (277,306 reputation)ATHS Member - (277,306 reputation)ATHS Member - (277,306 reputation)ATHS Member - (277,306 reputation)

Group: Forum User
Last Active: 5 hours ago
Posts: 2,400, Visits: 18,564
I've got a Flxible Clipper bus (1946) and it has a Ross gear in it with the same horn button, but mine has the hard bakelite ears instead of the semi-hard rubber ones

:::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::
“He, who is without oil, shall throw the first rod” Compressions 8.7:1
Steve Peterson
Central Wisconsin

Follow The Leaders For They Know The Way AUTOCAR
Day Radebaugh
 Posted Wednesday, July 17, 2013 3:01 PM
ATHS Member

ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)ATHS Member - (1,604 reputation)

Group: Forum User
Last Active: Tuesday, December 24, 2013 10:43 AM
Posts: 18, Visits: 88
Bakelite makes sense immediately post-war I suppose, but rubber and plastic must have made it extinct after awhile.

Day Radebaugh
Cam
 Posted Thursday, July 18, 2013 5:58 AM
ATHS Member

ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)ATHS Member - (199,998 reputation)

Group: Forum User
Last Active: Wednesday, October 02, 2019 6:14 AM
Posts: 997, Visits: 894
That is a Sheller (later Sheller Globe) steering wheel, as was used on Mack, Peterbilt, Kenworth, Freightliner, and others. It is interesting to note that circa '71 Sheller came out with a raised center version of this wheel, adopted by most other makers, yet Autocar continued to use the earlier version. The horn button assembly is still available through TRW, minus the tin. I think Hyster forklifts stock something similar. If that wheel is for a 1" splined shaft, I might have a source for a new-old-stock wheel.
dayradebaugh
 Posted Sunday, January 17, 2021 12:47 PM
.

. - (11,893 reputation). - (11,893 reputation). - (11,893 reputation). - (11,893 reputation). - (11,893 reputation). - (11,893 reputation). - (11,893 reputation). - (11,893 reputation). - (11,893 reputation)

Group: Forum User
Last Active: Thursday, January 21, 2021 2:18 AM
Posts: 64, Visits: 998
Got the horn button off as you suggested. All parts underneath seem to be sound.

My goal is to take the wheel off, repair it, and paint it black. Do not see the tapped holes for a standard wheel puller.

Instead there are 3 holes through which I could thread wires in some fashion and cobble together some sort of puller.

Otherwise, it's the old block of wood hammer trick.

Any better ideas?

Thanks

Similar Topics

Expand / Collapse

Reading This Topic

Expand / Collapse

Back To Top