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Favorite body fillers?

Posted By kblackav8or Sunday, February 12, 2012 8:38 AM
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kblackav8or
 Posted Sunday, February 12, 2012 8:38 AM
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My next phase is bodywork - I have some old drilled holes, small dings and other areas I need to work.  I am repairing both fiberglass and aluminum bodywork.  I was planning on using a high end polyester based filler for much of it but also some either All Metal or Metal to Metal for seams or other areas of concern.  I plan on filling the none structural holes left behind with a bandaid of a piece of aluminum sheet cut to size and then epoxied behind the hole using JB Weld most likely.  Then fill whatever is left with normal filler.  For any missing rivets they will be replaced with another rivet or appropriate fastener.  Any advice, other ideas? 


Wolfcreek_Steve
 Posted Sunday, February 12, 2012 9:25 AM
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I'm don't have enough body filler experience to have a favorite, but from what I've heard you get what you pay for. Spreading ease and sandability are the big differences. When it comes to gluing patches on the back side of panels, there are several brands of "toughened" adhesives meant for gluing body panels together. These can take the stresses of differences in expansion rate between the metal and the glue. For fiberglass there is a glue specially for gluing Corvettes together that might come in handy. Good Luck making her pretty!

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Steven Millam
 Posted Sunday, February 12, 2012 11:21 AM
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In the last couple of weeks I filled some holes that were about 1/4 inch in diameter with, I think , all metal filler I got at NAPA. It was around 32 dollars a quart. Nice and smooth  and sanded real nice. I would recommend it and plan on using it in the future also. I'm just starting to play around with the body work on my truck.
Bob McDaniel (Indiana...
 Posted Sunday, February 12, 2012 3:48 PM
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The best way to fix a hole in any metal is to weld it shut so it will not crack and fall out later. I have never done aluminum so other than some sort of solder or aluminum type weld I don't know what to use. I do know you want to rough up the area good so any body filler you use will have something to hold on to. For the fiberglass you want to V out any cracks and maybe even work the drilled holes into sort of a V or small cone and force your filler as deep as you can into the crack or hole. When you do fiberglass work it will build up static electricity so if you have a big part you may want to hook a ground to it or it will become a real dust magnet when you wipe it down to paint it.

I don't have a favorite brand of bondo because it has been so long since I bought any they don't even make mine anymore. I try not to use any but sometimes you need a thin coat when you can't get things back in shape with the hammer and dolly and metal file.


Bob
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Sunday, February 12, 2012 3:53 PM by Bob McDaniel (Indiana Trucks)
David M. Holt
 Posted Sunday, February 12, 2012 4:52 PM
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If the holes are in steel just plug weld them with a mig welder and grind smooth  pick it out if you can get behind it then file. no filler required just youre primer  filler. Make sure you etch all the bare metal before you prime or spread fillers or j b weld to it. Putting bondo on bare metal is a bad idea it will come back to haunt you eventually. With fiberglass shread up the fiber matting do'nt cut it with scissors then mix up small amounts and place youre mixture over the holes that you ground out with a 24 grit pad on a drill. Go slow and feather it back. you dont want any straight edges where you are going to fill. I dab it in with a 1/4 paint brush and work out any air bubbles.  I put masking tabe around area I'm working to keep original area untouched. block out with course paper untill you go through the making tape. If you have patience you can almost not you filler there either. I use Slicksand  made by Evercoat and spray rite over youre fiberglass repair the block it out.
dirtywhiteboy
 Posted Sunday, February 12, 2012 7:39 PM
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if you can seal up the back side by weilding a patch or what ever is preferd,moisture seeping in under filler will rott back out lot worse in shorter time! then hammer an dolly best you can so what filler you do use is as thin as posible,..i dont like any over a 1/8 inch thick..walmart,advance,orillieys an autozone will all have BONDO brand,..orillieys will have a cheaper brand,...hope you got better selection than we do here,..gettin it mixed right with hardner an spread right for it sets is the trick to it,...then follow that up with glaze'in putty,then prime,good luck







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tomchristopher71
 Posted Sunday, February 12, 2012 11:24 PM
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I like Evercoat or Bondo for body filler. I also use a Fiberglass filler underneath any areas that need to be covered. I like the short strand better than the long strand. There are products out there for putting panels together, I've never used them but have heard from people that the bond is as strong as a weld. Don't forget to also buy a tube of spot putty. 




kblackav8or
 Posted Monday, February 13, 2012 1:31 AM
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I have no way of welding aluminum, if it was steel I would be welding up the holes.  I wouldn't use anything but an epoxy or other high strength adhesive to make my "band aide".  If it is bonded on there with the strength they advertise - I can go over the seam on the inside with seam sealer and that should keep the moisture out.  I like my filler to be almost transparent when done and am capable with hammer and dolly, I haven't done it with aluminum yet so I am a little bit cautious at this point.  Mostly what I am after is if there are any recent breakthroughs on materials that I should be looking at.  I wish I could use my stud welder on my cab but I don't think they make aluminum nails for that. 


Tired Iron
 Posted Monday, February 13, 2012 3:18 PM
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I have used Lab metal and if you use their thinner you can reduce it down like thin bondo.
Bill White
 Posted Monday, February 13, 2012 3:54 PM
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Kevin. This is good stuff.

Metal-2-Metal™


Aluminum filled body repair filler for metal surfaces. Has excellent corrosion resistance and superior adhesion to galvanized steel and aluminum.

Will not sag. Best known as the "nearest thing to lead." Moisture proof. Rustproof. Easily sands to a fine featheredge. Metal-2-Metal™ liquid reactor included.



Bill



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