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Western Star front seal progress(or lack of)

Posted By FBHOMER Sunday, October 09, 2011 11:51 AM
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FBHOMER
 Posted Sunday, October 09, 2011 11:51 AM
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Finally decided to pull the hood and radiator on the Wesstern Star to get at the front seal of the NTC 350 Cummins. Got the crank pulley off and I found that the seal wore almost clear thru the speedy sleeve. Went to pry off the sleeve and the thin part just collapsed on itself. Plus I got the wrong seal as the new one is bigger.

Now I got to get the right seal (#212227 if this is right) plus the speedy sleeve or a new crank pulley. Nuts.


Tim Green
itali83
 Posted Sunday, October 09, 2011 2:21 PM
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Just heat the speedy sleve with a torch, it will melt right off because it's so thin and not hurn the dampener. Just don't pull the trigger like you want to cut something, no need for that, it'll melt really easy.

Ben

'87 Autocar AFT64B 425 Cat Cranked up, 8LL, 46 Rears with 4:11's on Hendrickson Restored by My Father and I

FBHOMER
 Posted Sunday, October 09, 2011 3:40 PM
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I should have mentioned that I got the sleeve off. I used a sharp wood chisel and didn't leave a mark on the pulley.
Whoever did this the last time didn't cut the roll off the speedy sleeve. I say this because I have never seen one wore thru like that before. I thought if a new pulley was available it might outlast another speedy sleeve but I don't know how long this one has been on here.


Tim Green
dashby
 Posted Wednesday, November 09, 2011 8:17 PM
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Hey FB,

Sure wish you would get some of the girls in the office to help you with posting pictures.  We need to see what you are getting done.  Reckon Rick would come down and snap a few?

Dean

BTW--Do you know these guys?http://forums.aths.org/InstantForum2010/Uploads/Images/480b982e-b4a5-4bf3-8c15-d011.jpg


Every Body Gotta Be Some Place
Tony Bullard
 Posted Thursday, November 10, 2011 1:56 AM
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FBHOMER (10/9/2011)
Finally decided to pull the hood and radiator on the Wesstern Star to get at the front seal of the NTC 350 Cummins. Got the crank pulley off and I found that the seal wore almost clear thru the speedy sleeve. Went to pry off the sleeve and the thin part just collapsed on itself. Plus I got the wrong seal as the new one is bigger.

Now I got to get the right seal (#212227 if this is right) plus the speedy sleeve or a new crank pulley. Nuts.


Tim, if there is a groove worn clear through the speedy sleeve I'm thinking you have the wrong seal diameter ID. Get someone to mic the pulley and get the right speedy sleeve here: http://www.skf.com/files/344136.pdf . If the pulley is worn really deep I would fill it in with Devcon Plastic Steel and while still soft press the sleeve over it. Now you know what the right seal ID should be. Mic the bore for the seal OD. Get your seal at a good auto supply of industrial supply. 


Tony Bullard, Chelsea Vermont
''''''''34 Ford BB restored,
''''''''62 Autocar DC870H restored
glenn akers
 Posted Thursday, November 10, 2011 12:47 PM
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Tony Bullard (11/10/2011)
FBHOMER (10/9/2011)
Finally decided to pull the hood and radiator on the Wesstern Star to get at the front seal of the NTC 350 Cummins. Got the crank pulley off and I found that the seal wore almost clear thru the speedy sleeve. Went to pry off the sleeve and the thin part just collapsed on itself. Plus I got the wrong seal as the new one is bigger.

Now I got to get the right seal (#212227 if this is right) plus the speedy sleeve or a new crank pulley. Nuts.


Tim, if there is a groove worn clear through the speedy sleeve I'm thinking you have the wrong seal diameter ID. Get someone to mic the pulley and get the right speedy sleeve here: http://www.skf.com/files/344136.pdf . If the pulley is worn really deep I would fill it in with Devcon Plastic Steel and while still soft press the sleeve over it. Now you know what the right seal ID should be. Mic the bore for the seal OD. Get your seal at a good auto supply of industrial supply. 
            That is what a speedy sleeve will do. Wear the seal out. The seal is standard and it is too tight on the speedy sleeve. I have used them also but exspect a short life on the seal unless the seal is a over size. Most of the time on that crank hub there you can push the seal in to a different postion or not as far in and stay away from the groove. And then you dont use the sleeve.


glenn akers
Thursday, November 10, 2011 12:51 PM by glenn akers
FBHOMER
 Posted Tuesday, November 15, 2011 2:11 PM
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I have it up at Layne Machine ( Layne Transmissions for race cars) in K C They are going to fill the grooves (more than one in it) and turn it down to the right diamiter (spelling?? geting older stinks) They are not that deep so we didn't think it would weaken anything.Waiting for it to get back now.

Dean ,she bought me an I pad so I should be able to take pics and post them. Took her out to see Hoover Dam 2 weeks ago and last weekend we had too much going on at home to play with it.


Tim Green
FBHOMER
 Posted Wednesday, November 16, 2011 3:42 AM
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Dean,
I could email a few to tide you over until I learn it if I had your email address or send them to you phone.


Tim Green
RedKevin47
 Posted Wednesday, November 16, 2011 5:53 AM
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Tim and Glenn, all, I'm going to have to do this same job on my Cummins NTF 855. I don't know if it has been sleeved. Is your engine pulled or in the truck? There is a lot of room in front of my engine but I'm considering pulling it anyway because there is so much more I could get at. The rear seal is not leaking but it should be replaced becasue it never has been and the truck sat for a long time, never run. I need a service manual for the NTC /NTF series if anyone knows where one is available.

My truck: 1973 pumper fire truck w/855 Cummins NTF in FWD/Duplex FF2-038
FBHOMER
 Posted Wednesday, November 16, 2011 7:04 AM
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I pulled the radiator because mine has a tapered nose on the crank and my puller would not fit in there. Some you don't have to use a pulled but mine wouldnt have came off without it.
Watch eBay, those manuals come upon once in a while worth the money .


Tim Green

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