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front cover gasket replacement n14 cummins

Posted By randy12 Monday, September 19, 2011 3:24 AM
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randy12
 Posted Monday, September 19, 2011 3:24 AM
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The front cover gasket on my n14 has been leaking for a long time, but now is really starting to bother me.  doesn't use any oil in 15k miles, but just makes a mess on my left rear quarter fender and steps...dealer quoted $2000.00 to change....would like to do myself, but don't know what is involved for any specialty tools, or how long it should take me to do this. Removing the hood and radiator is not a big deal, but I  understand that there is an inner and outer gasket??? With my luck, it would be the worst case scenario...any suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Randy
kblackav8or
 Posted Monday, September 19, 2011 4:10 AM
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I am sure someone will chime in on fixing it.  An alternative (band-aid) so you don't have the mess would be to make a wind deflector from some sheet aluminum or rubber belting and attach it so that it slows the airflow around where it is dripping so that the leak drips to the ground rather then being blown back onto your truck.  If you look under the radiator on cars there is usually a little rubber mud flap looking thing that is designed to create a low pressure area above and behind the radiator to cause the air to be pulled through the radiator rather then travel around it.  You can probably come up with something simple and accomplish the same thing so that the airflow around the leakage is disrupted.  It may take some experimentation to get the right shape/size and position so that it gets the leak off the truck.  I would be hesitant to take it apart if it isn't consuming oil or doing more then cosmetic damage to your truck.  Maybe there is some other options but just thought I would offer something less then a involved repair that may be a compromise for the time being.  FWIW

One more thing, make sure your breathers are functioning like they should, sometimes leaks can develop from excess crankcase pressure on some engines.  Does it leak all the time or only while running?  I am not familiar with if N14's have a normal draft tube like the older ones or some sort of breather system that routes the fumes back through the engine like a PCV type of system. 



Monday, September 19, 2011 4:17 AM by kblackav8or
randy12
 Posted Monday, September 19, 2011 2:00 PM
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Thanks, will try your suggestion. only leaks when running..draft tube same as old 855 cummins., with the addition of a simple foam filter that sits on top of the valve cover..doesn't seem to be any restriction....
glenn akers
 Posted Monday, September 19, 2011 3:36 PM
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most trucks that have a N14 in it can have the cover removed with out pulling the hood. Many can be done with rad in it. What truck do you have?I can give you detail procedure on it but tonight i have to go to bed. 535 mile today and same next two days. Dont seem like much but it is for a end dump.

glenn akers
randy12
 Posted Sunday, September 25, 2011 12:21 PM
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It is in a 1999 int'l 9300..
glenn akers
 Posted Sunday, September 25, 2011 4:35 PM
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randy12 (9/25/2011)
It is in a 1999 int'l 9300..
     I cant say that i have ever did a cummins in that truck.. But say that even if the rad has to came out dont pull the hood but most N14 has enough room in front to do with rad in. Most trucks you lean the rad forward and some will let you pull the shroud off with rad in the frame. You dont need a puller to pull the dampern but need a tee bar puller to pull acc drive pulley. I always leave oil in pan and drop the pan bolts down half way and drop pan down 1/4" then put a shim made out of banding stap doubled over between the pan and block then with a wood block under pan jack the engine up with the pan. Now you have clearance to slide the front cover off of the pan and gasket. If the gasket tears replace or a small amount of sealer will make seal. The front cam support brg with 3 3/8 bolts has a o/ring on it so make sure and replace and dont lose the shims.When you go back on you need a special puller to install the acc drive pulley. Dont do as some do and beat it back on with a hammer.The pulley has a replaceable wear ring for the seal.About a 5 hr job if you can do it that way.Also you will need a seal driver to install the front seal properly and it will be sold with or with out a wear ring for the crank shaft.


glenn akers
Sunday, September 25, 2011 10:36 PM by glenn akers
JCHAULER
 Posted Sunday, September 25, 2011 9:15 PM
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have you found where it is leaking from yet   crank seal; acc drive; cover gasket; timing plug o-ring; or maybe a cracked cover
randy12
 Posted Monday, September 26, 2011 1:12 AM
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Thanks,
You made it sound easy....My local Int'l dealer made it sound like a much more involved process....Won't be able to do it for a couple of weeks, but will keep you posted when I do ...
wayne graham
 Posted Tuesday, September 27, 2011 5:10 PM
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Randy, just to be sure what they told you if your front cover is cracked and needs to be replaced then the price will be around 2000 but otherwise as Glenn said about 5 hours plus parts. Wayne
randy12
 Posted Tuesday, October 11, 2011 2:02 PM
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I did the job yesterday in about 8 hours....took a long time to clean cover and block...old gasket really baked on. Didn't have to remove radiator, just fan and shroud...went fairly smooth, had chainfalls overhead to lift engine and didn't tear pan gasket..only hitch was the o-ring on cam suppport cover torn and couldn't get new one, so put back with old one, but is leaking....should have new one tomorrow, and will change...easy job. Thanks for the information...gave me the courage to attempt the job myself..Was able to borrow special tool to install seal and pulley on accessory drive...a must for this job.....Thanks again, Randy

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