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Air Disc Brake - restomod upgrade

Posted By kblackav8or Sunday, November 28, 2010 10:46 AM
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kblackav8or
 Posted Sunday, November 28, 2010 10:46 AM
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Being someone who often has difficulty leaving well enough alone, I scored a 12k front axle from a 1990ish W900B that has factory installed air disc / disk brakes.  I foresee some challenges with steering and spring attachment but other then that it should be a fairly straight forward upgrade.  Any front brakes to me is better then none.  For the typical bobtail around or light RV pulling, adding some added stopping power up front has been a priority for me.  I did pretty well on price on the setup.  Seems to be all there and well greased in the past.  I anticipate needing to replace the treadle valve, adding the requisite air lines, hoses, QR valve etc.  Anything I am missing?  Anyone recognize these brakes?  I haven't unloaded and cleaned them up yet to determine manufacturer and model.  Once I have it cleaned up and on some jack stands I will update with some more pictures.
Kevin














braketester
 Posted Sunday, November 28, 2010 11:17 AM
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That is an old Meritor disc brake. One of their first designs. I have seen these on firetrucks and also on tractors. They work okay but not as good as the newer stuff. Nice to have though.

Brian BittnerSomerset County, Pennsylvania
braketester
 Posted Sunday, November 28, 2010 11:58 AM
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I am not sure of the model. It might be a ADB1560.

Brian BittnerSomerset County, Pennsylvania
glenn akers
 Posted Sunday, November 28, 2010 12:33 PM
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Freightliner used them for a while but it was a not standard. It is different than the new disc.

glenn akers
kblackav8or
 Posted Sunday, November 28, 2010 1:12 PM
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I found a link to the 1560 referenced by Brian.  I am sure if these work OK they will be a huge upgrade from nothing at all. 
http://www.meritorhvs.com/MeritorHVS_Documents/pb8857adb.pdf



braketester
 Posted Sunday, November 28, 2010 1:31 PM
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Kevin,

I don`t think you need to change your treadle valve. You might have to change the QR valve because the crack pressure might be different for the disc brake. What are you going to install this setup on?


Brian BittnerSomerset County, Pennsylvania
kblackav8or
 Posted Sunday, November 28, 2010 2:06 PM
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1959 Kenworth CC 925.  Does not have factory installed front brakes.  If you know what components I will need to make these brakes work, that would be very helpful.  I plan on just swapping axles when the time is right. 


Aaron
 Posted Sunday, November 28, 2010 6:33 PM
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Why would you put that ugly garbage under there, most likely can't find parts for it and if you do there made of unobtainiam, why don't you just find a set of correct backing plates and drums that fit that 900 axle, in that country up there there should be plenty of them around, and they will put you thru the windshield.

I can't get anymore out of it, I've got both sticks hot clear up to the knobs allready.
www.killcarb.org
mpowell
 Posted Sunday, November 28, 2010 7:22 PM
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I love the fact my extended hood doesn't have front brakes.  May just delete them off the little green truck when they wear out.  They probably never will, I keep them backed off further than the rest of the brakes, just within pass inspection limits.  I don't think they ever come on, I back every other axle off 1/2 turn, when I do check the steer axle its 1 1/4 turn and and 1 1/4 back out again, adjustment never changes. 

1978 W900A Extended Hood, 3408, 5x4 Spicers - Sunday Driver / Work in Progress
kblackav8or
 Posted Sunday, November 28, 2010 7:34 PM
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For what I paid for all of it, I can't find a bare axle up here.  If it works, great, if it don't, I am not out much.  I picked it up while I was out of the state yesterday for work.  Got a cheap used seat to replace the ripped/torn one in the 59.  We'll see what things look like when cleaned up.

Some of the fire guys seem to like them.  Found this:

"We have an '89 Duplex/Quality with Rockwell Duramax ADB-1560 disc brakes on both axles. They have performed very well for us. They stop straight, true and fast, even when they're wet, and without locking up. We put new pads on 3 years ago and will be doing front pads later this week. The rear rotors were fine. I don't know what the fronts look like, but I don't have any reason the think that there's a problem. I will grant you that pads do wear faster than shoes, but that's probably because they have fewer square inches of braking material.

We like disc brakes so much that we've spec'd the Meritor 17" EX-225 brakes on our new Spartan/Toyne (see "Toyne Wins" on Page 6 or 7 of this forum) on both axles. Many builders want to give you disc brakes on the front but balk at putting them on the drive axle. Other than price, I don't know the logic for that. Several years ago when we were talking to HME, their guy flat refused to put disc brakes on the drive. He would put them on the steer axle, but only reluctantly. Maybe someone else will come in with some thoughts on that point.

The only time we had a problem with the parking brake not holding was when the automatic slack adjusters failed to adjust. It takes considerably less of an out-of-adjustment condition to cause that to happen on that type of disc brake. The newer ones don't use slack adjusters.

In defense of the drum brake people, I do remember being in a well known shop in Manasquan, N.J. getting an ambulance worked on. They were removing the disc brake system from an engine and replacing it with drum brakes. I think that the engine belonged to a company from not far away from there. The shop manager told me that the company complained that it took too long to stop. I can't imagine what the problem was unless they were just too small. Our experience is just the opposite.

Point to be aware of: DOT's proposed braking standards are going to shorten allowable stopping distances considerably. I don't think that a Final Rule has been issued yet, but it's coming. In order to meet the standard, either disc brakes or larger drum brakes will be needed."



Sunday, November 28, 2010 7:38 PM by kblackav8or

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